Week 6 in London

This was our week of seeing plays, with a couple of walks and one out of town trip thrown in for good measure.

As usual, I taught on Monday morning. Then, in the afternoon, Mike and I met the students at the Dickens House Museum near Russell Square, about a 20-minute walk from our flat. (I've been wanting to walk more lately, both because I get tired of being underground and because I need to burn off all the chocolate and pastries I just keep eating!) Dickens lived in this house for a few years after he had first achieved fame with The Pickwick Papers.  t was full of his books and interesting overviews of his life. I remember hearing that Dickens separated from his wife Catherine after twenty-two years of marriage and ten children. At the museum, I learned that Catherine suffered from post-partum depression--I call it progressive hormone poisoning--after many of her childbirths. There was so little you could do for depression in that era; her suffering would have affected her husband and children as well as herself, which might partially explain the separation. (Of course, that doesn't justify Dickens in taking up with an actress young enough to be his daughter.)

On Tuesday, Mike stayed home to work and Kristine, the students, and I took a train to Kent, where we met George Chittock for a walk through the countryside. It was our first really rainy day in England, but it was warm and the rain wasn't heavy, so we still thoroughly enjoyed the walk.

Our first stop in Kent was Eynsford Castle, a Norman building that never had any later-era additions.

Our group at Eynsford Castle, Kent

Recycled Roman tile at Eynsford Castle

It did borrow from earlier buildings, however. Roman remnants are everywhere, and people just picked them up and reused them.

Recycled Roman statuary in house near Eynsford Castle

Here are some of our students--Kaylee, Lisa, Robin, and Emily--among the castle ruins.

The Kent countryside was lovely. We walked through woods and fields, and we did get wet, but I actually enjoyed the rain. We got so little of it this trip; it was nice to have a taste of true English weather.

Kent woods, summer 2013

Kent fields, summer 2013

Hiking in the rain in Kent

Our trusty guide was George Chittock. He is the former president of the London Wandsworth Stake, and he still makes all the assignments of BYU students to the various London wards. He loves to lead students on this walk, which he's been doing almost every semester for about ten years. He was born in the East End, so is a true cockney (you qualify if you were born within the sound of the bells of the Church of St. Mary-le-Bow).

George Chittock, Kent

Hops and lavender growing in Kent

Kent used to be covered with fields of hops, used to make beer. Apparently a different, non-hops-dependant process is used now, so these hops are only grown for decoration. People dry them and hang them up in garlands. We saw some in the rafters of the little shop George took us to at the end of our walk. But lavender, not hops, was the focus of the shop. They sold lavender oil, lavender chocolate, lavender shortbread (I bought some--yum!), bunches of dried lavender, lavender sachets, even lavender ice cream (I bought some of that, too, and it was quite good).

Wednesday Mike and I took Sarah Sandberg's suggestion and lunched at Zedel in London.

Lunch at Zedel

The food was delicious, and the atmosphere even better--a grandly old-fashioned room dotted with brass and marble-sheathed pillars and brightly lit by dozens of crystal chandeliers. Made me feel like a 20's celebrity. 

Art Deco lobby at Zedel, London

Wednesday night was our first play of the week: The "Indian Tempest," at the Globe.

"The Indian Tempest," Globe Theatre, London

It was Shakespeare's Tempest, but done in an Indian style--sort of. Prospero spoke an Indian dialect, but he also spoke English. Miranda only spoke English, and Ferdinand only spoke French. It was odd, but entertaining.

Thursday we visited Churchill's War Rooms in Whitehall--the place from which Churchill directed the war effort in World War II. The rooms are all in the basement and pretty stark, although the top brass got a few nods to their rank, such as a carpet laid on top of the cement floor.

Churchill's War Rooms at Whitehall

Never miss an opportunity to try on a silly hat.

My favorite part of the exhibit was a computer loop displaying memorable Churchill phrases from his entire career. It really showed his gift for words, his humor, and his common sense. For instance, during the war, someone proposed labeling mass eating areas as “Communal feeding centres.” Churchill nixed the idea, thinking it sounded too much like socialism. He proposed using "British Restaurants" instead, because everyone associates restaurants with good times.

Here are some other gems:

1900 -  While canvassing for votes, Churchill asked a man in the street to vote for him. “Vote for you?" the man said, "Why, I’d rather vote for the devil!” Churchill: “I understand. But in case your friend is not running, may I count on your support?”

1906 - “We are all worms. But I do believe that I am a glow-worm.”

1925 - “To improve is to change. To be perfect is to change often.”

1934 - “Eating my words has never given me indigestion.”

1940 - “I certainly deprecate any comparison between Herr Hitler and Napoleon; I do not wish to insult the dead.”

1952 - “A fanatic is one who can’t change his mind and won’t change the subject.”

Immediately after our tour of the war rooms, we took a tour of the Houses of Parliament.

Houses of Parliament, Westminster

Statue of Oliver Cromwell outside the Houses of Parliament

On our way in, we passed a statue of Oliver Cromwell. I guess it makes sense that Cromwell is honored here.  He was a leading general for the parliamentary forces fighting against King Charles I in the English Civil War. But when Parliament won the war, tried the king for treason, and had him beheaded, they couldn't stop wrangling with each other, so Cromwell took over. He managed to restore order, but did so by doing exactly the same thing that had made Parliament rebel against the king: proroguing them (dissolving parliament, sending them home and ruling by himself). But he did refuse the crown when it was offered to him, so I suppose he was still a Parliament man at heart . . .

Great Hall, Westminster

Next we went to the Great Hall, built by William II, son of William the Conqueror, from 1097-99. It's the only surviving part of the original palace of Westminster. The rest of it burned down during Henry VIII's reign, was rebuilt, then burned down again in the early nineteenth century. So the cool gothic structure we all recognize is actually a Victorian creation. During World War II, Parliament was once more partially destroyed by German bombing. English firefighters let the House of Commons burn down in order to focus their energies on saving this hall. I think it was the right choice.

We had a fabulous guide to take us through the House of Lords and the House of Commons (rebuilt after the war). In the hallways leading to the two chambers were a series of large paintings on subjects of importance to English history--at least according to the nineteenth-century builders of Westminster Palace. I thought it was fascinating that one of the scenes they chose to depict was "The Embarkation of the Pilgrim Fathers." I'd love to learn more about how that American event made the list. Another scene showed the Speaker of the House of Commons refusing to turn over five members of Parliament to King Charles I, who came to the House to arrest them. This story came up several times on the tour. Our guide claimed it was THE pivotal moment in the seventeenth century, when Parliament made it absolutely clear that their power was separate from and inviolate by the king. Since that day, no English monarch has been allowed--or attempted--to enter the House of Commons.

"Sound of Music" set, Regent's Park, London

Thursday night we took the entire group to Regent's Park to see "The Sound of Music" at their open-air theatre. It was fabulous. I don't recall ever seeing the stage version before. There were three numbers that were new to me (sung by the baroness and Max). Maria was amazing, the nuns' harmonies were stunning, and the children were adorable. It was a delightful evening.

Guides, Oliver Cromwell's house, Ely

On Friday we took a day trip to Ely to see Oliver Cromwell's house.  The tour was definitely aimed at children a decade younger than our students.  There were lots of opportunities to heft swords and try on hats and clothes.

Dressing up at Cromwell's House

Dressing up at Cromwell's House

Near the end, you could vote on whether Cromwell was a hero (left side) or a villain (right side). The museum displayed the last year's record of tallies, and it was generally a pretty close contest. As you can see, our students were split, too. They liked the fact that Cromwell (and parliamentarians in general) stood up for the ancient rights of Englishmen against the 17th century trend toward absolute monarchy, but they really hated the fact that Parliament outlawed Christmas! (Here is the English comedy show "Horrible Histories" take on that event:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3YnrB2BjZQ [start at 3:00]).

Cromwell: Hero or horror?

Next we visited Cambridge. My colleague Paul Kerry arranged for some of the BYU students at the Pembroke-King's College program (the same program Annie attended last year) to give us a tour.  

Courtyard of Pembroke College, Cambridge

Only fellows (faculty, in other words) are allowed to walk on the lawns.  Oh my.  

Beautiful gardens at Pembroke College

After touring the campus, we all went punting on the Cam.

The Cam river, Cambridge

Here are some of our students enjoying the ride.

Afterwards we let our students loose to buy their Cambridge sweatshirts and other souvenirs.  

I passed this shop, which reminded me of Harry Potter.

We got home in time to grab a quick dinner and make it to the theatre to see "Matilda!" I hadn't been that interested in seeing this show. It was a bit over-hyped, and I thought it was aimed at children. Mike was interested though, so we splurged on some good seats close to the stage. I was so glad we did. It was my favorite of all the shows we saw. Amazing acting and dancing by the child actors, and the adult ones, and great songs. I particularly loved "When I grow up," which I still find myself humming.

Saturday Mike and I decided to visit Hampstead Heath, a huge park north of London, preserved by various miracles of nineteenth-century generosity for ordinary working people to have access to fresh air and walks in the countryside. The neighborhood of Hampstead is charming, and we enjoyed a nice lunch in one of the narrow side streets there. We visited St. John's Church, which had a wonderfully overgrown and decaying churchyard. (Apparently, it has been used as the setting for a number of vampire movies.)

St. John's Church, Hampstead Heath

St John's Churchyard, Hampstead Heath

The churchyard held the graves of a number of famous painters and scientists, like John Harrison, who spent most of his life perfecting a clock that enabled sailors to determine longitude.

John Harrison memorial, St. John's Churchyard, Hampstead Heath

Mike and I decided to visit Kenwood House on Hampstead Heath, which has a great collection of art. When we got to the gatehouse, we learned that it was being renovated and would be closed through the end of the year. But, happily, there was a fair being held on the grounds that day, celebrating the anniversary of the 20's-era bequest of the house to the country. There were bands playing 20's music, people acting out scenes from the history of the bequest, and people giving carriage rides in the manner the owners of the estate would have been accustomed to.

Scenes from the fair on Hampstead Heath

                                                                                          

Carriage rides at fair on Hampstead Heath

Mike and I had walked miles to get there, and had miles more to walk back, so we availed ourselves of the lush lawns and shady trees and took a nap.  

Napping view, Hampstead Heath

Martin and Lucy Feingold memorial bench, Hampstead Heath

On our way back we passed a bench with this beautiful inscription:

Martin and Lucy Feingold, 1945-2008

Who lived together in love forever

Sadly, Mike had to leave Sunday morning.  We had so much fun together!  I hope we can do it again.

Just one more week to record, which I'll try to get to in the next few days.